It is a shirt that has several names: button down shirt, American collar shirt, button down shirt, button down shirt, small button collar shirt, and especially OCBD... What is it? Oxford Cloth Button Down because the button down collar is specific to the oxford fabric shirt, a soft cotton with a coarse grain. But you can find the Button Down collar shirt in many other fabrics as well.
Today, and regardless of its fabric, the button down collar shirt is worn more casually than a classic shirt. Welcome in summer as well as in winter, it is synonymous with relaxation, weekend, vacations, leisure.
What is its history? Which fabrics and patterns to choose? How to wear it? Follow the guide in this article.
The history of the button-down shirt
It was invented by English polo players, who, embarrassed by the collar of their shirt flying at a gallop, decided to add a button so that it would stay in place. It is only later, in the 1900s, that this collar was popularized by the American and European public by John Brooks, director of the Brooks Brothers clothing company.
What are the specificities of an American collar shirt?
The collar must be big enough to be buttoned on the body of the shirt. This high part of the shirt, close to the neckline, is called the collar stand.
The points of the collar must also have sufficiently spaced points and therefore a wide enough angle to insert a tie knot.
The button down shirt sometimes has a chest pocket. It is also characterized by a small loop in the back that was once used to hang it in the checkroom and that Americans call "Locker loop".
In what situations to wear a button-down collar shirt?
The American collar shirt is a casual shirt, which is worn in relaxed situations.
It will be perfect in informal situations, such as the weekend, on vacation, for outdoor activities.
It can still be worn in a more formal setting, such as a family gathering. In this case, we associate it with a mismatched outfit: a blazer and pants of neutral color for a relaxed but serious side. You can complete the ensemble with a scarf or a knitted tie, which is perfectly suited to the button-down shirt.
On the other hand, the American collar shirt should not be worn with a suit for which a French or Italian collar shirt is preferred, more elegant and adapted.
We also avoid wearing the button-down collar shirt in the office. Its casual style does not lend itself to it and risks conveying an image a little too "vacation".
Finally exit the bow tie that does not correspond at all to the type of button-down shirt, and even less if it is in a pattern that contrasts strongly with that of the shirt.
What fabrics and colors to choose?
Choose a button-down shirt in comfortable fabrics such as poplin, velvet, denim or flannel in winter and chambray, linen or oxford in summer.
Plain, striped or small check, roll up the sleeves in summer and wear it under a cardigan or wool v-neck sweater in winter. It goes perfectly with jeans, chino, shorts or velvet pants depending on the season. It can also be worn as an overshirt if it is made of velvet, flannel or denim.
In velvet
https://www.villandraut.com/en/shirts/210-green-velvet-shirt.html
In flannel
https://www.villandraut.com/en/shirts/226-checked-black-and-red-flannel-shirt.html
In denim
https://www.villandraut.com/en/shirts/185-blue-denim-shirt.html
